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Besides the fact that Brazil is the single largest producer of Coffee worldwide (Arabica specie), is it still pledging to have a place on the biggest coffee reference worldwide – ICE. ICE is an organization that, among several other commodities including oil barrel, drives the future market value of commodity (more specific it helps companies and the governments in a financial operation called ‘hedging’).
In a simplified way, ICE (Intercontinental Exchange) currently works with 19 countries (Including Guatemala and Colombia) that produce coffees, and based on their volumes and prices define what should (may) be the future price of coffee. The allegations are that Brazil, with his huge volume will decrease the overall coffee price, with a negative consequence on the quality. Under Guatemala and Colombia perspective Brazil doesn’t produces coffee with enough quality to be a part of this select team.
Interesting enough is that Colombia, in order to equate their committed exporting volumes , is current buying coffee from Brazil. This Brazilian coffee is not going to be exported as ‘Colombia’ coffee (which international prices are much higher then Brazilian coffees) , as we could assume, but is is going to be use on Colombia Internal markets, to allow their total production to be exported.
Being a part of this select Countries from ICE will allow Brazil, among other benefits, to have a direct, and strong influence , on the prices of the coffee worldwide, giving to Brazil a chance to, step by step, recover the once lost, position as a coffee ‘world price driver’.
sources: www.revistacafeicultura.com.br, canaldoprodutor.com.br
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Speciality Coffee Association of America (SCAA) Green Coffee Classification
The green coffee classification standard provided by the SCAA is an excellent method to classify coffees. It is superior over some systems in that it better accounts for the relationship between defect and cup quality. However, it leaves out a few of the important defects that can occur in coffee.
To classify a coffee, 300 grams of properly hulled coffee is classified according to the standards given below. 100 grams of this coffee is sorted using screens 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18. The coffee remaining in each screen is weighed and the percentage is recorded. Since classifying 300 grams of coffee is very time consuming, 100 grams of coffee is typically used. It is recommend that if the coffee is of high quality with few defects to use 300 grams. If the coffee is of a lower quality with many defects 100 grams will often suffice in a correct classification as either Below Standard Grade or Off Grade. The coffees then must be roasted and cupped to evaluate cup characteristics.
Speciality Grade (1): Not more than 5 full defects in 300 grams of coffee. No primary defects allowed. A maximum of 5% above or below screen size indicated is tolerated. Must possess at least one distinctive attribute in the body, flavour, aroma, or acidity. Must be free of faults and taints. No quakers are permitted. Moisture content is between 9-13%.
Premium Grade (2): No more than 8 full defects in 300 grams. Primary defects are permitted. A maximum of 5% above or below screen size indicated is tolerated. Must possess at least one distinctive attribute in the body, flavour, aroma, or acidity. Must be free of faults and may contain only 3 quakers. Moisture content is between 9-13%.
Exchange Grade (3): 9-23 full defects in 300 grams. Must have 50% by weight above screen size 15 with no more than 5% of screen size below 14. No cup faults are permitted and a maximum of 5 quakers are allowed. Moisture content is between 9-13%.
Below Standard Grade (4): 24-86 defects in 300 grams.
Off Grade (5): More than 86 defects in 300 grams.
Primary Defects
Primary Defect
Number of occurrences equal to one full defect.
Full Black
1
Full Sour
1
Pod/Cherry
1
Large Stones
2
Medium Stones
5
Large Sticks
2
Medium Sticks
5
Secondary Defects
Secondary Defects
Number of occurrences equal to one full defect
Parchment
2-3
Hull/Husk
2-3
Broken/Chipped
5
Insect Damage
2-5
Partial Black
2-3
Partial Sour
2-3
Floater
5
Shell
5
Small Stones
1
Small sticks
1
Water Damage
2-5
http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/x6939e/X6939e13.htm
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One of the most important activities for coffee at plantation is to ‘grade’ the coffee. Grading is the activity where the farmer, or cooperative in most of case, will classify the coffee according to certain standards. In other words, separate the real, good coffee, from all the dirty that we can find in any soil (rockies, leaves, defective coffee…). Unfortunately the grading system is NOT standardized worldwide, it means each country does have their own rules and regulations. There are some grading systems (Brazil and New York Stock), that sometimes, are used as reference for other countries, but generally each country does have their own. We will cover in this blog some of the grading systems available worldwide.
Part 1 – Coffee from Kenya
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The coffee beans, after milling are graded mechanically into various grades which differ in size, weight or shape. Incorporated into the grading system are the colours sorting machines which are the capable of separating high quality coffee beans from light and defective ones electronically.
In Kenya grading mechanism the resulting grades are roughly described as follows:
E
This is the largest of all the grades in size and has been named Elephant grade in the grading. Usually there are two seeds joining together to form the seed in a single cherry. It is the source of ears when the seeds part during handling. This grade also includes the very large PB beans. Like PB this grade is normally in small quantities in a consignment.
AA
This grade has good size formation of large beans (7.20mm screen). This grade usually fetches a higher price than any other grade.
AB
This grade is a combination of two grades A and B A- 6.80mmscreen, B-6.20mm screen. AB is regarded as a representative of the other grades in a consignment and usually there is more coffee of his grade than of other grades in a consignment. It is also a popular grade which fetches good prices.
PB
Round beans which usually grow as one bean in a single cherry bean. About 10% of coffee falls in this grade.
C
Smaller beans than B and most of the thin beans in this grade.
TT
This grade is composed of light beans which are raged and are usually separated from all other grades.
T
The smallest and thinnest beans, most of the beans are in the form of chips. Most of the beans in this grade are broken and faulty. In classification, this grade is always below the other grades.
MH /ML
This is the coffee that has not gone through the wet processing either because it was not picked, or because it fell from the trees after ripening. About 7% of total crop falls into this grade, which generally fetches lower prices and which has sour tasting liquor.
The above grades are then subjected to a vigorous classification by liquoring Department of the board to assign the classification standards as to the quality of the raw roasted and cup taste. The cup quality is usually described as fine fairer to good, fair to average quality down to common plain liquor. Coffee of good raw quality and appearance and has a good roast also has a pleasant flavor.
| Sl No. |
Grade |
General description |
Screen apertures as per KS 174 or ISO 415-1980* |
| i) |
E |
Elephant – (Retained on 21)
Two beans joined together, it is a genetic defect. And includes very large (bold) AA |
Size diameter 8.3 mm |
| ii) |
AA |
Flat beans – (Through screen 21 retained on 18) |
size diameter 7.2 mm |
| iii) |
AB |
Flat beans – (through screen 18 retained on 17) |
Size diameter 6.35 mm |
| iv) |
PB |
Pea berries – (through screen 17. Retained on 12)
One ovule develops instead of the usual two |
Size diameter 4.76 mm |
| v) |
C |
Smaller beans – (through screen 16 retained on 10) |
Size diameter 3.96 mm |
| vi) |
TT |
Light density beans, from AA, AB and E grades by air extraction |
|
| vii) |
T |
Smallest, consists of brokens and small C (through screen 7 ) |
Size diameter 2.9 mm |
When a coffee grade is specified, a minimum 95 % of the beans shall fall in that grade category.
(http://www.coffeeboardkenya.org/) |
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Of course, when you really just enjoy your expresso as it is, you will probably not care about water quality, but as somebody already sad about coffee “… long path to nirvana”, and assuming that If you are reading these words, probably you are already into the ‘path to nirvana’, lets talk about water. I started to investigate the water impact on the coffee, after starting to see some ‘clear color spots’ on my expresso. After allowing my ignorance to flood the ‘sweetmarias list’ I understood that the most probably culprit of my ‘clear spots’ was the water. Added to these ‘clear spots’ , I’m also concerned to the water quality for my future business (yes!, I’m building a business plan!), will be a disaster to not forecast some kind of water filter system (Specially considering that I’m planning to have a business back in Brazil, where the water quality in my targeted small region is not, per say, ‘pristine’).
Interesting or not, I could not find easily, a plenty of information regarding the recommended water filter system for coffee preparation. In fact what I found some places, with bits of information, but not big picture, except the amazing page from Jim Schulman
I thought to not write anything on Tamper, but more and more I fell that is bad, but necessary stuff. I’m current using a regular, metal polished tamper, for both my Gaggia Classic as well my new (used) . I found that for begginers like myself to calibrate the ‘hand’ is somehow a challenge. The use of bathroom scale without question, helps. But when you start to change the coffee type, the environment humidity varies, keep exact same hand pressure is a mental challenge (I don’t really think that keep the bathroom scale on the kitchen is something that my wife will allow me to do  ). It is a mental challenge because you know that if you want more extraction time, you will need more ‘compacted’ coffee, that you can obtain or through a smaller setting on the grinder, or …..
Googleeing (?) around, I found a very interesting tamper that ‘forces’ you to keep the same pressure all the time, nice. But, sorry almost US$90 for a tamper !!!! (http://www.espro.ca/) is not something that I feel comfortable (for a lack of better expression !) I found this interesting video on YouTube that describes well the , otherwise simple, but methodical process to get a good ‘tampering’. It is interesting to see how this simple accessory, became a symbol of ‘status’ (?) on the coffee industry (specially among baristas), to the point that you will probably need to spend around US$ 30 to get a decent tamper ( www.ebay.com)
The story of how coffee growing and drinking spread around the world is one of the greatest and most romantic in history. It starts in the Horn of Africa, in Ethiopia, where the coffee tree probably originated in the province of Kaffa. There are various fanciful but unlikely stories surrounding the discovery of the properties of roasted coffee beans. One story has it that an Ethiopian goatherd was amazed at the lively behaviour of his goats after chewing red coffee berries. What we know with more certainty is that the succulent outer cherry flesh was eaten by slaves taken from present day Sudan into Yemen and Arabia, through the great port of its day, Mocha, now synonymous with coffee. Coffee was certainly being cultivated in Yemen by the 15th century and probably much earlier than that.
Mocha was also the main port for the one sea route to Mecca, and was the busiest place in the world at the time. But the Arabs had a strict policy not to export any fertile beans, so that coffee could not be cultivated anywhere else. The coffee bean is the seed of the coffee tree, but when stripped of its outer layers it becomes infertile. The race to make off with some live coffee trees or beans was eventually won by the Dutch in 1616, who brought some back to Holland where they were grown in greenhouses.
Initially, the authorities in Yemen actively encouraged coffee drinking as it was considered preferable to the extreme side effects of Kat, a shrub whose buds and leaves were chewed as a stimulant. The first coffeehouses were opened in Mecca and were called ‘kaveh kanes’. They quickly spread throughout the Arab world and became successful places where chess was played, gossip was exchanged, and singing, dancing and music were enjoyed. They were luxuriously decorated and each had an individual character. Nothing quite like the coffeehouse had existed before: a place where society and business could be conducted in comfortable surroundings and where anyone could go, for the price of coffee.
The Arabian coffeehouses soon became centres of political activity and were suppressed. Coffee and coffeehouses were subsequently banned several times over the next few decades, but they kept reappearing. Eventually a solution was found when coffeehouses and coffee were taxed.
COFFEE COMES TO ASIA
The Dutch were also growing coffee at Malabar in India, and in 1699 took some to Batavia in Java, in what is now Indonesia. Within a few years the Dutch colonies had become the main suppliers of coffee to Europe. Today Indonesia is the fourth largest exporter of coffee in the world.COFFEE COMES TO EUROPE
Venetian traders first brought coffee to Europe in 1615. This was a period when the two other great hot beverages also appeared in Europe. Hot chocolate was the first, brought by the Spanish from the Americas to Spain in 1528; and tea, which was first sold in Europe in 1610.
At first coffee was mainly sold by lemonade vendors and was believed to have medicinal qualities. The first European coffeehouse opened in Venice in 1683, with the most famous, Caffe Florian in Piazza San Marco, opening in 1720. It is still open for business today.
The largest insurance market in the world, Lloyd’s of London, began life as a coffeehouse. It was started in 1688 by Edward Lloyd, who prepared lists of the ships that his customers had insured.
COFFEE COMES TO THE AMERICAS
The first reference to coffee being drunk in North America is from 1668 and, soon after, coffee houses were established in New York, Philadelphia, Boston and other towns. The Boston Tea Party Of 1773 was planned in a coffee house, the Green Dragon. Both the New York Stock Exchange and the Bank of New York started in coffeehouses, in what is today the financial district known as Wall Street.
It was in the 1720s that coffee first came to be cultivated in the Americas, through what is perhaps the most fascinating and romantic story in the history of coffee.
Gabriel Mathieu de Clieu was a French naval officer serving in Martinique who in 1720, went to Paris on leave. With assistance and no little personal charm he acquired a coffee tree which he took with him on the ship back. The plant was kept in a glass case on deck to keep it warm and prevent damage from salt water. The journey was eventful, or at least Mr. Mathieu de Clieu’s journal of the voyage was. Pirates from Tunis threatened the ship, there was a violent storm and the plant had to be tied down. Our hero faced an enemy on board who was jealous and tried to sabotage the plant. There was a violent struggle in which a branch was torn off, but the plant survived this horror.
Then the ship was becalmed and drinking water was rationed. De Clieu had his priorities right and gave most of his allowance of precious water to the coffee plant. It survived, as did he.
Finally, the ship arrived in Martinique and the coffee tree was re-planted at Preebear, where it was surrounded by a thorn hedge and watched over by slaves. It grew, and multiplied, and by 1726 the first harvest was ready. It is recorded that by 1777, there were between 18 and 19 million coffee trees on Martinique, and the model for a new cash crop that could be grown in the New World was in place.
But it was the Dutch who first started the spread of the coffee plant in Central and South America, where today it reigns supreme as the main continental cash crop. Coffee first arrived in the Dutch colony of Surinam in 1718, to be followed by plantations in French Guyana and the first of many in Brazil at Para. In 1730 the British introduced coffee to Jamaica, where today the most famous and expensive coffee in the world is grown in the Blue Mountains. By 1825, South and Central America were on track towards their coffee destiny. That date is also important as it was when coffee was first planted in Hawaii which produces the only US coffee, and one of the finest.
COFFEE TODAY
For North Americans, the world’s largest consumers, Seattle is the new spiritual home of coffee. The wettest major city in the USA gave birth in the 1970s to a café or ‘Latte’ culture which swept the USA and has dramatically improved the general quality of the coffee Americans drink. Today, any public place in the USA will have one or more coffee carts, serving a variety of coffees, drinks and snacks.
This new found ‘coffee culture’ has started to spread to the rest of the world. To those countries with great coffee traditions of their own, such as Italy, Germany, and Scandinavia, added new converts to the pleasures of good coffee. Today it is possible to find good coffee in every major city of the world, from London to Sydney to Tokyo; tomorrow the world will drink more and more importantly, better coffee.
COFFEE IS A GLOBAL COMMODITY
The importance of coffee in the world economy cannot be overstated. It is one of the most valuable primary products in world trade, in many years second in value only to oil as a source of foreign exchange to developing countries. Its cultivation, processing, trading, transportation and marketing provide employment for millions of people worldwide. Coffee is crucial to the economies and politics of many developing countries; for many of the world’s Least Developed Countries, exports of coffee account for a substantial part of their foreign exchange earnings in some cases over 80%. Coffee is a traded commodity on major futures and commodity exchanges, most importantly in London and New York.
Source: International Coffee Organization
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Managing the taste Through the Temperature – The basics
This is an area where I’m just touching, but it is revealing complex, and does greatly affect the coffee taste, in fact sometimes I believe that you can even ‘mask’ some bad coffees with a good, well thought, roasting. The file ‘Profile Roasting’ give a good overview of how the whole roasting process work (From Probat), including some description of key elements to get a ‘professional roast’. Of course this document will “scare” anyone that is starting on the roasting science, but it is a reasonable reference. (For who likes formulas, there is a funny thing with roasting on the file “coffee roasting – A tentative funny model”). The language for the coffee roasting is somehow standardized as :
Green Bean, New England ,City, Full City ,Vienna, French,Coal (sic!)
Roasting Perfil:
At earlier stages, my understanding was that just the color of the roasted bean was enough to tell the degree of roast.This is not fully right, the color of the roasted beans only offer the last degree of roasting, but in fact the whole roasting process (temperature x time) takes a significative role on the final roasting. As of now , I’m tend to like (personal opinion !!!) more the medium dark roast (?City+? – See table below extracted from Brew Organic).
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I’m not at all a Coffee Expert (Even close to the feet of Mane Alves from Coffee Lab International), neither pretend to be one. My objective is to get a good cup of coffee everyday (and enjoy the path to get there!). On the way to get a good cup of coffee, I’m learning with the experts and with some nice sources:
Body x Acidity : This site provide a table make a basic relationship, for some coffees between Body and Acidity. It helps to make the initial decisions for blends
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Coffee as a hobby started at the end of 2006, after returning from China. At the end of every dinner, or even sometimes the lunch, specially in Italian restaurants I got a shot of espresso. In fact, thanks to a Family Doctor recommendation, back more then 10 years ago, I have completely stopped to drink any coffee, but in China, was a bit different (why?).
Unfortunately, back to USA, no espresso,… then what? Using some credit card perks I got a small espresso machine, brought some Brazilian Coffee (supermarket). Ugly! Where is the espresso? A little more then dirty water. Internet search to try to learn a bit, no ‘crema’, ‘weak’ taste, … Problem is the coffee! Easy, buy a better coffee. Not so ugly, but not there yet. Problem is the coffee machine!Bit expensive, ok , save a bit of money, new coffee machine! It is better now, but still not ‘wuau’. Problem is the grinder! (It is getting interesting), save more money, new grinder. Ok, got even better, but still not there…..To make short, I’m roasting, grinding, member of coffee importing cooperative, and still not there YET (but getting better!!!)
Nice Sites:
SweetMarias - Green Coffee and more (Outstanding!!!), excellent coffee reviews, very active Blog and Users List (dozens emails daily).Truly a FREE coffee university
Coffee Bean Corral - Good alternative to SweetMarias, usually a good stash of green beans. I’ve tried just one time,no issues
Green Coffee Importing Cooperative - As long as you willing to wait to get your coffee, and buy few pounds (Instead of single pound on SweetMArias or Coffee Corral), it is really good. You need to register and search for new offerings often, or register to receive regular emails.Also tried couple times, no issues so far.
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